Heritage meets modern elegance.
Not Fast, Not Cheap, Not Sorry: Afrocentric Fashion Too Expensive? You’re Wrong
By Thapelo Tlou • Nov 2, 2025
How much should a shirt cost? At Mnandi Textiles in Cape Town, the answer is not in rands, but in hours, hands, and histories. To dismiss Afrocentric fashion as “too expensive” is to miss the point entirely because what leaves Mnandi’s workshop is not just clothing, but labour, memory, and art stitched into fabric. From street-level makers to boutique ateliers, the story is the same: African fashion carries the weight of history, skill, and care, that weight deserves recognition. Across the continent, designers insist that slow, deliberate work is not a limitation but a choice. Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture in Lagos explains that their small-scale production avoids mass manufacturing, letting every stitch honour craft rather than speed.
The life of a garment begins long before a needle pierces cloth. Fabrics are hunted down with reverence: hand-dyed mudcloths alive with centuries-old symbols, wax prints whose bold patterns ripple with the confidence of West African aesthetics, cottons dyed deep indigo by artisans who still dip and wring by hand. In the early days, Ilse and her team travelled dusty roads to Malawian markets, rolling fabric between their fingers, tracing the rhythm of prints. Today, photographs and screens replace those trips, but the ritual remains the same: choosing cloth not for convenience, but for story.
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